Method of constructing leg covering garments



June 16, 1931. J, PINK 1,810,517

METHOD OF CONSTRUCTING LEG COVERING GARMENTS Filed Nov. 6. 1929 2Sheets-Sheet l glwomtoc Jacob nnk 2056 J: I admilnastmtrax.

June 16, 1931. v J, FINK 1,810,517

' [METHOD OF CONSTRUCTING LEG COVERING GARMENTS I Filed Nov. 6, 1929 2sheets-sheet 2 77; Eye

dec ealsed/ Z floss (I {in Patented June 16, 1931 UNITED STATES JACOBrnvx, DECEASED, LATE or ST. PAUL,- MINNESOTA, BY ROSE PATENT OFFICE J.FINK, ADMINIS- TRATRIX, OF ST. PAUL, MINNESOTA METHOD OF GONSTRUCTING-LEG COVERING GARMEN'IS Application filed November 6, 1929. Serial No.405,107.

This invention relates to a method of con structing a leg coveringgarment of the type described in Patent N 0. 1,705,008, dated March12th, 1929, to Jacob Fink, now deceased, and particularly to a method ofconstructing the pattern for such a garment whereby a full and properlyfitting seat and crotch of the garment is formed.

It is the. object of this invention to facilitate the construction of agarment of the class described, with economy in the use of material,while insuring the formation of a garment which properly conforms to thefigure and allows freedom of movement of the wearer without unsightlylooseness of material.

The invention will be best understood by reference to the accompanyingdrawings in which the device is particularly illustrated as employed inthe construction of a garment of the type known as a knickerbocker.

In the drawings, Figure 1 is a rear View of the improved garment; Fig. 2is a fragmentary, top, plan view of the crotch of the garment; Fig. 3 isa plan view of a typical pattern for the entire garment; Figs. 4, 5 and6 illustrate successive steps in the formatlon of the pattern for therear of the garment, including the seat piece and rear part of the legcovering members and Fig. 7 is a plan View of the several members of thegarment laid out in their relative positions for sewing together.

The garment, as best shown in Fig. 7, is formed from a seat piece 8,rear elements 9 and front elements 10 of leg covering members. Edges 11of the seat piece 8 are sewed to edges 12 of the elements 9 and edges 13of the members 10 are sewed to edges 14 of the elements 9 and the upperportions of said edges 13 may be secured to side edges 15 of the seatpiece 8. Edges 16 of the members 10 are joined together at the front ofthe garment to form a front seam extending from the front of the waistline to the crotchof the garment. Inside leg seams are formed by joiningthe edges 17 0f the members 10 to edges 18 of the elements 9. Asshown in Figs. 1 and 2, a pointed lower end 19 of the seat plece 8overlaps angular projections 20 of the members 10 to form a reinforcedcrotch in which the extremities of the projections 20 meet at a centralpoint and a minimum of overlapping seams is provided.

Proper fitting of the garment is dependent largely on the constructionof the seat piece 8 and adjoining edges of the elements 9. To insureproper fitting of the garment, I lay out a pattern as illustrated inFigs. 3 to 6 inclusive. The first step (shown in Fig. 4) in the processis to lay out a pattern 21 for the rear of one of the leg coveringmembers and including the material for the seat piece pattern. Thepattern thus laid out or drawn includes an edge 22, representing thecenter line of the back of the garment; an edge 23, representing aportion of the waistline; an edge 24, representing the linecorresponding to an outside leg seam, an edge 25 at the legopening andan inside seam edge 26 extending to a point or corner 27 at the junctionof the cen ter line 22. From the point 27 is then drawn a line :28representing the side edge of the seat piece and extending above thewaistline edge 23 in a projection defined by the lines 29. i

As shown in Fig. 5, the next step is to cut the seat piece along thelines 22, 28 and 29 so that the severed piece 30 may be moved to aposition like that taken by the seat piece in the finished garment. Thusthe seat piece pattern may be moved down to overlap the corner 27 andupper extremity of the edge 26. Where an undergarment or other loosefitting garment is desired, the piece 30 and remander of the member 21may be employed as the completed pattern for the seat piece and rear ofthe leg covering member. Thus an edge 31 on the seat piece 30 and anedge 32 on the leg member 21 are formed in the pattern and thecorresponding edges of the fabric, when sewed together, produce thedesired fullness and reinforced crotch such as that necessary, in orderto secure the lower portions of the edges 11 of the seat piece to theedges 12 of the crotch corners of the elements 9, to move the pointedend 19 and the crotch corners of the elements 9 transversely out of theposition where they would normally lie flat in overlapping relation toeach other. i i

When a closer fitting garment is desired, the edge 31 of the seat piece30 may be cut away, as indicated by the line 33 in Fig. 5 and anextension 34: of the line 33' may be made across the upper part of themember 21. The seat piece 35 of the pattern, as shown in Fig. 6, may nowbe formed by tracing'the lines 22, 23, 33 and 34 at the same timedefining the modified leg covering member 36 with the original edgedefined by line 32 merging into the edge corresponding to line 34. Thiscompletes the formation of the patterns for the seat piece 8 and element9 of the leg covering member, it being understood that the garment issymmetrical about the center line 22. The member 10 is finally laid outand may, if desired, be superimposed upon the pattern 21 for the rear ofthe garment, as indicated by the dotted lines 37, 38 and 39 in Fig. 3.Proper fitting together of the front and rear elements of the legcovering members is facilitated by the construction illustrated in Fig.3, the pattern of the member 10 being traced from the lines 37, 38. 39and connecting outline of the pattern 21. Where a reinforced crotch isnot desirable or necessary the pointed end '19 of the seat piece 8 maybe omitted or cut off so that its lower end conforms to the inside legseams.

The invention is used advantageously in the construction ofundergarments for men, women or children, or for trousers, bloomers,knickerboekers or other external garments. It has obvious advantages inconstructing garments for outing orsport wear.

Having described the invention of said J ACOB FINx, deceased, what isclaimed as new and desired to be protected by Letters Patent is:

'1. The method of constructing a leg covering garment, having legcovering and seat members, which comprises, laying out the pattern forthe rear part of one of the leg members, said pattern having edges representing the waistline and center line of the back of the garment, layingout on the surface of the pattern so formed. and extending along saidcenter line a pattern for a seat piece,'allowing material to projectabove the waistline for the upper part of the seat piece,

forming a seat piece and a leg covering member from said patterns andmoving said seat piece downward from its corresponding position in thepattern-relative to said first mentioned pattern and joining the edgesof the seat piece and leg member together in their new relativepositions.

pattern for the rear part of one of the leg members, said pattern havingedges representing the waistline and center line of the back of thegarment, laying out on the sur- 1 face of the pattern so formed andextending along said center line a pattern for a seat piece, the latterpattern having its lower end formed by a line extending obliquely upwardfrom said center line, allowing material to project above the. waistlinefor the upper part of the seat piece, forming a seat piece and a legcovering member from said patterns and moving said seat piece downwardfrom its corresponding position in the pattern relative to said firstmentioned pattern and joining the edges of the seat piece and leg membertogether in their new relative positions 3. The method of constructing aleg covering garment, having leg covering and seat members, whichcomprises, laying out the pattern for at least a part of one of the legmembers, said pattern having edges repre tern for a seat piece extendingalong said center line, forming an extension of the seat pieceprojecting above the waistline and utilizing the outline of the seatpiece and leg members thus produced in the construction of the garment.

4. The method of constructing a leg covering garment having leg membersand a. seat piece, which consists in laying out the pattern for at leastthe roar part of one of the leg covering members, one side edge of saidpattern representing the center line of the back of the garment, and thepattern having a crotch corner at the lower end of said center line,laying out on the margin of said pattern adjoining said edge a patternfor a seat piece by drawing a line from said corner obliquely upwardtoward the waistline, constructing seat and leg covering members fromsaid patterns and securing the corner of said leg covering membercorresponding to said corner of the pattern to. the side edge of theseat at a point removed from the lower end thereof.

5. The method of constructing a leg covering garment, having legcovering and seat members, which comprises, laying out the pattern forat least a part of one of the leg members, said pattern having edgesrepresenting the waistline and center line of the back of the garment,laying out on the pattern so formed and cutting therefrom a patpieceprojecting above the waistline and utilizing the outline. of saidpatterns in the construction of the seat piece and leg members of thegarment. I

6. The method of constructing a leg covering garment-having leg membersand a seat piece which consists in forming similar leg covering membershaving corners projecting toward the center line of the garment in the 1crotch, placing a seat piece toconform at portions of its side edges tothe rear edges of said members, said piece having a crotch portionoverlapping said projections when laid fiat and with said members andpiece in position for assembling in the garment, securing said seatpiece to the rear edges of said leg covering members and securing theside edges of said crotch portion to the side edges of said cornersWhile moving overlapping portions 2o transversely out of said flatposition to give,

fulness to the crotch.

7. The method of constructing a leg covering garment having leg membersand a seat piece which consists in forming a leg covering member havinga corner projecting from the rear edge of the same toward the centerline of the garment in the crotch, said corner having upper and lowerconverging edges extending obliquely toward said center line,

i placing a seat piece to be secured to the rear edge of said memberwith a crotch portion of said piece overlapping said projection whenlaid flat and with said member and piece in position for assembling inthe garment, securing said seat piece to the rear edge of said legcovering member andsecuring the side edge of said crotch portion to theupper side edge of said corner while moving said overlapping portiontransversely out of said flat position.

In testimony whereof, I have hereunto signed my name to thisspecification.

I ROSE J. FINK, ,Admz'nistratm'w of the Estate of Said? Jacob Fink,Deceased.

